Don't Nag Your Horse/ How To Motivate A Lazy Horse
All too often I see people complain that their horse has gotten less sensitive to their aids the longer they have has the horse. This is not a problem with the horse, this is a direct result of what happens when a rider nags their horse. A nagging rider has poor timing with either increasing pressure and or releasing that pressure. Most often this is seen with beginner riders but many people do this unintentionally. The main result of this is lazy horses, the type of horse you have to peddle along, really using your leg or the horse just putters to a stop. However nagging results in other problems too. I've seen pushy horses that were the result of a nagging handler. If you always lead up by the halter, you constantly have pressure on your horses face. This also leaves the horse nowhere to go, but on top of you because they don't have room to be anywhere else. Aggressive horses can also be made by nagging handlers. I have seen my fair share of horses that kick and charge while being lunged because there is never a release in pressure. At some point the horse had enough and started acting out. No matter whether you are on the ground or under saddle, it's important to start with a very soft cue and build to a stronger cue. You need to increase pressure until you get a response. If you plateau at a certain level of pressure a horse can easily learn to ignore it because they know you won't follow through with more pressure. As soon as your horse moves forward, release pressure. This release is what tells the horse that they made the correct choice.
On the ground, in a round pen, I would point the direction desired, then give a vocal cue. I cluck once to walk, two clucks to trot and a kiss to lope. After my vocal cue I begin my follow through, I will swing a whip or flap a flag, then I begin stepping towards the horse continuing to escalate pressure until my horse moves off. As soon as the horse moves, I release all pressure. It doesn't matter if my horse moves one step or ten laps around the round pen, I release for the try. If I have a horse that is really dead to a specific aid, I temporarily use a different one. If my horse shows no response to a lunge whip, even with a good deal of pressure, I will try a flag. If I get no response to a flag, even waving it like I'm trying to signal a rescue plane, I get creative. I will shake a water bottle of rocks, open an umbrella, the follow through doesn't matter as long as it motivates the horse. Later, when the horse moves off of a vocal cue, you can introduce the aid you want. For example I would point, click, gently wave a flag then shake the rocks. The horse has the option to move off of the ask, followed by the aid you want, followed by what motivates the horse to move.
It is similar under saddle. On a broke horse that knows what a whip is, I will start at a standstill. I will give my vocal cue, squeeze with very soft pressure from my calves, then use a dressage whip to tap on the hindquarters, building pressure until my horse moves forward. As soon as I get a try, I release.
It is important to note that when I release, I do not apply any pressure until my horse comes to a stop again. I continue to ask from square one any time I ask my horse to go. starting with the softest pressure until I am confident my horse understands what is being asked.
Once the horse understands, then I go to the correcting phase. If my horse breaks gait, I will give a strong correction to get my horse back in the desired gait. Then I will release again.
This release teaches your horse that it is worth continueing to move forward because of that release. It ends the cycle of peddling your horse along.
Correcting can also be done at a standstill. I will again start with the very soft pressure and build. The difference is now I want the horse to push forward instead of drag themselves forward. Even after my horse moves off I’ll build pressure until my horse is in front of my leg. I may end up in a trot or even canter. It doesn’t matter what hair the horse ends up in, as long as they are doing more than you. After a number of repetitions you will see how the horse walks off completely change.
Improving your timing can also improve other adverse reactions in your horse. Grumpy horses will no longer resent working.